Loewe showed for first time in Paris with its menswear collection

Fashion

Madrid- Inside the Maison de l' Unesco, a luminous cotton sculpture by German artist Franz Erhard Walther presides over the space dedicated to the Loewe show.

Arty stamp

Under the title ‘Gelbe Modellierung’ (1985), the cut and segmented canvas forms a “mural formation” in the style of this artist's installations and performances, encouraging the viewer to interact with the elements: in this case, two jackets and two trouser legs are attached to a yellow, compartmentalised surface. This sculpture stood as the focal point of Loewe's first men's show with Jonathan Anderson as creative director, as a spectacle conceived by himself.

Walther's work conversed with the autumn/winter 2019-2020 menswear collection; this large-scale abstract work questions both the utility of a garment and its connotations. Loewe's craftsmanship thus materialised unexpectedly, merging the ideals of an incongruous masculinity where the tradition of tailoring contrasted with team sports.

Craftsmanship in motion

Outerwear in shearling and cashmere wool, in camel, elevated the everyday. Trompe l'oeils took centre stage in the wool crests and crocodile print, finished with luxurious quilted pastel leather and cashmere coats crafted with fringed scarves.

High calf boots with closed zips were combined with loose-fitting jerseys and tunics, the long fabrics incorporated a variety of relics (beads that looked like pebbles and naive illustrations), and the cardigans worked with thread evoked the natural processes of craftsmanship. As in Walther's scaled forms, the elongated sleeves of the shirts peeked out from under a two-button tuxedo cut with asymmetrical buttonholes.

In the bag section, the iconic Puzzle appeared in burnished and hand-woven leather, while the Saddle Gate model was presented to men in its giant version.

Credit: Loewe

This article was translated to English using an AI tool.

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