Loewe menswear collection debuts in Paris

Fashion

Inside the Maison de l'Unesco, a luminous cotton sculpture by German artist Franz Erhard Walther presided over the space dedicated to the Loewe show.

Arty seal

Entitled ‘Gelbe Modellierung’ (1985), the cut and segmented canvas formed a ‘mural formation’ in the style of the artist’s installations and performances, encouraging the viewer to interact with the elements: in this case, two jackets and two trouser legs appeared joined to a yellow, compartmentalised surface. This sculpture stood as the focal point of Spanish luxury brand Loewe’s first menswear show with Jonathan Anderson as creative director, a spectacle conceived by Anderson himself.

Walther’s work engaged in dialogue with the AW19 menswear collection; this large-scale abstract piece questioned both the utility of a garment and its connotations. Loewe’s craftsmanship materialised in unexpected ways, merging the ideals of an incongruous masculinity where the tradition of tailoring contrasted with team sports.

Craftsmanship in motion

Camel-coloured shearling and cashmere outerwear elevated the everyday. Trompe-l’œil took centre stage in the woollen crests and printed crocodile, topped with luxurious pastel quilted leather and cashmere coats crafted with fringed scarves.

Calf-high boots with zipped closures were paired with loose-fitting jumpers and tunics, long weaves incorporated a variety of relics (pebble-like beads and naïve illustrations), and thread-worked cardigans evoked the natural processes of craftsmanship. As in Walther’s descaled forms, elongated shirt sleeves peeked out from beneath a two-button tuxedo cut with asymmetrical buttonholes.

In the bag department, the iconic Puzzle bag appeared in burnished, hand-braided leather, while the Saddle Gate model was presented to men in its giant version.

Photo credit: Loewe

This article was translated to English using an AI tool.

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